During the battle for ownership of the land after Escobar’s death in 1993, the Hacienda was abandoned for many years, during which time many of the animals escaped or died. One family of hippos had escaped and were living in the nearby Magdalena River. In June 2009 the male was found by the authorities and shot. The animal was killed after two years of searching for a home for them, and the government’s worry that they might hurt someone.
The mother and baby have not been found. The local fishermen and farmers don’t want to give up the location of the animals for fear that they will also be shot.
The hippos that remain in the estate are the biggest attraction to the park. In the main lake, they can be seen playing and fighting in the water, and they sun-bake on the banks. There are now over 20 hippopotamus which have reproduced from the only couple that was left after the estate’s neglect. And there’s Vanessa, a little hippo who comes out of her lake (she has a lake all to herself) and lets people feed her. She’s very well trained and answers to her name being called.
Painful Memories of Escobar and the 1970s-1990s
The other main attraction in Hacienda Nápoles is a chilling one. It is the curiosity of the painful past that this place represents to millions of Colombians and people in other countries. Through this place, Escobar moved endless amounts of cocaine, killed, tortured and extorted everyone he pleased.
Clara, a visitor from nearby Medellín says, “It’s difficult being here, to be confronted by his excessiveness… but it’s also beautiful and there are amazing animals here. I’m not sure what to feel about this place.” It’s a shared sentiment for all who lived through the Escobar era. For the young, like Sofía, 7, it’s simply a unique, cool zoo.
There are chivas, traditional buses of the Antioquia region, to take the visitors around the park. They pass by every stop every 15 to 20 minutes and cover the entire park. They also offer parking and drinks and snacks are available in every main stop. There are also toilets in every stop.
Nápoles is well organised and a five star hotel is being built in the estate. There are also camping and hostel options. It’s improving tourism in the region and creating jobs. It is also a small justice to Escobar’s victims, now that his wrong-doings are finally doing good, something he shamelessly claimed to be doing during his life.
Tourism in the Magdalena Medio Region
Hotels are being built in the region, and with Nápoles’ improvements, other attractions that were known only locally are beginning to attract national and international attention.
The Magdalena Medio region (the central region of the Magdalena River) is beautiful and lusciously green. There are countless waterfalls and lakes, and the mountains seem to make the air smell sweeter. The temperature is usually in the 30s range and the humidity is high and it rains heavily and often.
Puerto Truinfo is a great place to visit, as is nearby Río Claro.
To read more about Pablo Escobar and the History of Nápoles, click here.
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